The Ascending of Swami Joshuadivananda

Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna, Hare Hare Words imprinted in a mind, branded on a brain, neurons rewired, thoughts cleansed of impurity and reason. If I’d stayed at the ashram any longer than the ten days I was there, perhaps it would have gone so far. Still, months on, I find myself singing chants of elephant-headed … Continue reading The Ascending of Swami Joshuadivananda

Of Time in the Slum

The word ‘slum’ is thought to derive from the Irish phrase ‘S lome’ meaning “it is a bleak and destitute place.” The UN agency UN-HABITAT describes it as a “run-down area of a city, characterised by substandard housing, squalor and lacking in tenure security.” One billion people live in slums and In India, one in … Continue reading Of Time in the Slum

Tibetans in Exile

High in the mountains, it’s getting colder, winter proceeds. A curious culture exists; the men wear skirts, the people eat a simple diet of meat and fried savoury snacks, few vegetables consumed. They are a proud people and they want their independence back. No, I haven’t succumbed to illness, loneliness or deportation back to my … Continue reading Tibetans in Exile

The Traveling Tourist

The immigration form asks for ‘Purpose of Visit.’ I ignore the box marked ‘Tourist’ and instead tick ‘Other,’ writing on the dotted line ‘Traveling.’  Referring to myself as a traveler, I am letting others know that my reasons for being in the country are far more serious than the mere tourist. There are important distinctions … Continue reading The Traveling Tourist

The Pilgrimage

My first encounter with the Ganges came in Varanasi. I wasn’t too overawed if I’m being honest; it was dark brown, had litter and sewage along its banks and emitted a putrefying smell. The Indians didn’t seem to mind, to the contrary, they were loving it. But faith is by its very definition blind, and … Continue reading The Pilgrimage

Welcome to India: Varanasi, a Holy Place for a Baptism of Fire

The difficulties of traveling in India are well-known; the litter-strewn, traffic-congested streets, rogue cows, unreliable transport, pollution, various tropical diseases, food poisoning and rabid dogs are just some of the nuisances. I’d been warned about the various scams designed to relieve the foreigner of their rupees and as I crossed from Nepal,  felt reasonably confident … Continue reading Welcome to India: Varanasi, a Holy Place for a Baptism of Fire

Trekking in The Himalayas of Nepal – Take Guide? Or Not?

I came to Nepal intending on trekking the Annapurna circuit. At 8091m Annapurna I is the tenth highest mountain in the world. The trek is a long (15-20 days) but relatively easy undertaking – there are villages providing food and accommodation every few hours and trekking in late September sees only a few cold nights. … Continue reading Trekking in The Himalayas of Nepal – Take Guide? Or Not?